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CTETA
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Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2007 02:54 pm |
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http://www.fixya.com/support/p128384-ge_profile_spectra_jgbp90_gas_kitchen
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CTETA
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Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2007 03:10 pm |
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| GE PROFILE MODEL# JBP90AV1AA , now 12 years old - when 2 years old I used the self clean feature and blew the LV Transformer after the cycle was complete. GE Repair arrived 17 days later to tell me 10 days to get the part and repair. $180.00 later I never used the feature for 10 years for fear the transformer would blow and yes it blew when recently used. I called GE and was told the product was recalled to be transferred to another person to be told no that product was not recalled. I scheduled a GE repair person to diagnose the following week but cancelled and decided to have a local repair person look at the oven that evening. He was impressed I knew before his diagnoses that the transformer blew. The repair person came back in 5 days to repair the oven and stated never to use the self clean feature. This is a defective part and he was told by his supplier he bought one of the last 2 in the country. This part is no longer manufactured. I will NEVER buy GE appliances and I will spread the word. GE does not stand behind their products!
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mad dog
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Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2007 03:46 pm |
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| I have a ge stove model jgbc20bea4 and it is 5 years old and the oven will not heat up can i get some help to find out waht is going on? should i have this problem after 5 years?
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bessnfloyd
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Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2007 05:14 pm |
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If you'll go back to Page one (at the bottom of this page is navigation) you will see that the most common problem is the igniter. Read through and you can see how other people had the same problem and fixed it. Parts and instructions can be found at
I wouldn't buy a GE oven either after all these posts! And after GE's uncooperative response to my inquiries.
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Bess W.
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ONEEYEDMIC
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Posted: Tue Feb 6th, 2007 12:54 am |
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| This is very weird. My wife and I used the oven all afternoon to bake and when we went to turn it on after dinner the Oven would only stay on 100 degrees. The Broil works and so do the burners. We are cooking for approx 100-150 people and need out oven to work. If it is the ignightor I hope I can find one. Any help would be appreciated.
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mad dog
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Posted: Tue Feb 6th, 2007 03:39 am |
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| can i get some information about the law suit?
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bessnfloyd
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Posted: Tue Feb 6th, 2007 05:14 am |
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| I have no information on it; hopefully one of our readers will. Anyone??
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Bess W.
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Don
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Posted: Thu Feb 8th, 2007 07:24 pm |
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Change the igniteor, it's attached w/ two screws to the burner, Cut snip the two wires and reattach w/ the two ceramic wire nuts. worked for me on this same condition.
Don
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jeff
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Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 01:22 am |
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GE XL44 Oven, JGBP79WEW1WW, ~8 years old.
- Igniter NO glow, Broil works though, Stove top burners work.
- Clock, oven light, and oven electronic readout are working.
- Igniter has continuity
- Gas Valve has continuity
- Thermocouple has continuity and resistance ~24ohm
Can't find any fuses for power supply. Can it be my igniter that is bad? I couldn't get a current reading (don't own a clamp meter). Any help or insight much appreciated!
-Jeff
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Guest
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Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2007 02:27 pm |
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| Funny, I started having the same problem as everyone else on here a week ago. Have a broiler, have stove burners. No heat for anything below broil. Weird...
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Colleen
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Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2007 08:55 pm |
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Count me in as another person having this problem.
Quick question for those they repaired it. The screws are located UNDERNEATH. My husband can't figure out how to get to them to unscrew them without taking the whole bottom apart. Please tell me there is an easier solution!
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MK39
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Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2007 04:04 pm |
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I have the same problem as everybody, the oven would not heat up. The temp shows 100. I have checked all the posts in this forum as well as other places and have downloaded the repair procedure for replacing the ignitor(s), both the top and bottom are not glowing.
I am prepare to go all through this then my son started fiddling around with the self clean feature and set it to 2 hours clean. Both ignitors start to glow and the oven heats up internally, I have locked the door as well.
Before it reached 2 hours I switched it off (clear button) and tried the oven. It does not work , then I tried the broiler, the ignitor glows and the gas valve opens and I have broil on at Hi. After about 15 minutes this was shut off and the oven started. The oven also starts now with temperature going up slowly.
My wife baked three cakes after this and it is still working. I believe that the ignitors are just dirty and needs the self cleaning function. Although I have read the post on the problem with self clean above, I would recommend using this feature to try and get rid of the ignitor problem. Hope all are getting better results.
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Jeff
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 03:10 am |
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| Did taht work ok after the self cleaning and continue working after that or did you replace the ignitor?
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MK39
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 03:26 am |
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| The oven was working after self cleaning. It has been working for the whole week. I would recommend self cleaning every 2-3 months.
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lakelady
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Posted: Mon Feb 26th, 2007 01:41 pm |
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| Pull the stove out about a foot and unplug the wire harness on the back at the top left side. Check to see if the clock goes out or if the oven light doesn't work to make sure there is no power to the stove. Remove the oven door by pulling up and out.... it is heavy! Take out the oven racks. Then remove the two thumb screws on the bottom at the back to remove the oven bottom. You need to pull up the back side of it and pull toward the back to take it out. Also remove the drawer. Remove the hex head screw at the front holding the burner tube down. Then lay down and look under the stove and waaaay to the back are two hex head screws holding the iginiter and burner tube to the frame. This is where bifocals suck. Remove those two screws and pull the igniter and burner tube up. Clip the two wires on the igniter and turn over the burner tube. Take out the two hex head screws and remove the igniter. Put the new igniter on the tube assembly just like the old one was with the two screws. Strip about a half inch of the insulation from the stove wires and connect the two wires on the new igniter with the ceramic connectors. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which. Put the burner tube back into the hole, make sure it goes over the little brass tube, tuck the wires down inside the hole and put the two screws back to hold the burner assembly to the back wall. Put the screw back in on top to hold the burner down. Plug in the wire harness on the back of the stove and turn the oven on and see if the igniter glows, and it should, and the oven burner should kick on. Turn off the oven and give it a few minutes to cool off. While waiting, this is a good time to clean the oven drawer, the yucky sides of the stove, broiler and the oven door. Put the stove bottom back in. It has to slide under the lip at the front and then down at the back. The thumb screws will be hard to get back in because of the little clips. Just keep jiggling until all the holes line up. It helps to put a small screwdriver through the holes once you get one of them lined up while you get the other one lined up. Put everything back together, heat up a pizza and have a beer. Congratulations.
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BADM0F013
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Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2007 11:38 pm |
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| Ebay has the OEM replacement igniter part# WB2X9154 for $40.59 that includes shipping!!
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bterwilliger
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Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2007 03:34 pm |
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I have the same problem. Did you have any luck fixing the problem???
Bill T.
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BADMOFO13
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Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2007 07:03 pm |
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Install time was 20 minutes and yes it fixed the problem.
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BADMOFO13
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Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2007 07:15 pm |
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You have to take the old ignighter off and lay it next to the new one because the new one doesn't have the factory connectors it comes with ceramic wire nuts so you have to eye up the length where you cut off the old connectors ( you don't want to be shorter than original wire lead after connecting the wires with the ceramic wire nut because you do have reach where it plugged in originally ) To access the screws to take the burner off you have to take the lower storage tray out and use an extention on your pwer drill. To get these back in I had to start them by hand then tighten with the drill.
good luck.
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bessnfloyd
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Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2007 07:36 pm |
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People have certainly given some clear instructions and advice; thanks.
Don't forget; if you cannot get the part locally, you can get it at the Repair Clinic:
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Bess W.
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